SLO and SLO'R 1200 Across Canada

Oh Canada...as the anthem goes

2009-08-08T15:15:00.002-04:00

At the Fairmont Downtown and doing the final pack...feeling gloomy. The last couple of days in the City have been great. The hotel is superb and has been a great spot to finish up. Have walked pretty much all over Downtown and on to Stanley Park. Last night we went to see the BC Lions v Sascatchewan Roughriders...and BC got their first home win of the year!

So Canada, thank you for

Friendly and welcoming Customs and Border staff (USA take note!)
Amazing variety of scenery...and scale that defies belief
Great food along the way...especially lobster and steak !
Good roads (mostly) and considerate drivers who give bikers space (mostly). In fact my only scrape was when Slo reversed into me in week 1 ! Compared to the South Circular it's a pleasure to ride here.

Most of all though the people. Everywhere we've been greeted by warm, friendly interesting folks. People who will just walk over to you, spend time and share stories. People who seem to have a great pride in their Country and are delighted that we spent time visiting. I'd recommend Canada to any traveller...and would come back in a heartbeat.

And finally to my travelling companion SLO. Thanks for comitting to the trip and never faltering; for the great company and for helping me ride safe...I learned a lot from your skill and experience on the bike.

Slainte. JJ

Last day in Canada

2009-08-08T14:52:00.002-04:00

Well we finally head homewards this evening. Discussing the trip with JJ over breakfast we talked about the best and worst points of the trip. It's impossible to choose one or two, or even three of the best parts. So, let's do it the other way around. The worst points: Not many. The GPS (Garmin Zumo) without a shadow of a doubt is a piece of crap, unreliable, inconsistant and slow - and tthose are only its good points. The locks on the BMW luggage (they didn't). Port Hawkesbury, NS : we stayed at an expensive hotel in the middle (which is little more than an industrial estate). Penticton: a blackpool on steriods - the bad kind..... And that's about it.

The best. Way too many to mention. The Candians: absolutely wonderful people: kind, interesting, friendly - every other day we met people that you would proudly call friends. The scenery: as well as being vast, Canada is a beautiful country, from the east coast to the west. Every day I was in awe at its sheer spleandor. Photos cannot do it justice. The ride: spending several hours a day on the bike, feeling, smelling, interacting with the countryside. Probably the best way to see the country. The bike. The BMW R1200GSA (paniers aside) never missed a beat. Superb bike. And I suppose I should mention JJ. He's been the perfect travel companion - I don't think that we've argued once (in fact I know that we haven't). We've been friends for about 10 years - and long may it continue.

So what can I say? Come to Canada - you willl not be disappointed. I can't wait to return :)

Slo

Splashdown!! Houston the eagle has landed

2009-08-05T23:11:00.002-04:00

That's it then. Got 'r' done. Slo and JJ splashdown in the pacific at 1030 local time. "We don't know why the surfers are in wetsuits. Seems quite warm" JJ commented.

JJ smells his armpits after 6 weeks on the road. "I guess I should have packed the Right Guard"

Slo kills local marine life. Should have showered beforehand.

We're back in Vancouver. Bikes get packed and shipped tomorrow, we get packed and shipped on Saturday. We had a great run over the island mountains, very twisty and very very bumpy. Great fun. But we missed the ferry by about 30 seconds. Two hour wait, but some very nice people to chat to.....

Hope you enjoyed the blog. We certainly enjoyed the trip. It was absolutely fantastic :) No. That doesn't even start to describe this trip.......

Slainte
Slo

Ucluelet II - Now it's natural

2009-08-04T20:11:00.003-04:00

We actually took in some nature, on foot at 3mph rather than at 70..

Dali had already been to Ucluelet....

We tried chatting to the locals, but the were offended by my accent, or chat up lines.....

There are a lot of sunken ships out there...

JJ heard that there are beers in the wood ....

Having a relaxed afternoon with a bear......

Slo

Ucluelet (you-clue-let) Vancouver Island

2009-08-03T22:09:00.007-04:00

That's it then. All over bar the shouting - and celebratory drink ;) We're as far west as we plan to be - for a while anyway. Originally we were heading to Tofino, but ended up 30 miles south at Ucluelet. For once it wasn't the fault of the GPS. Although, JJ is getting a contant white screen on his.....

After a relaxing day spent in the city of Vancouver (so relaxing that I forgot to take any pictures) and then an evening spent tango-ing, we hopped on the ferry from Horseshoe Bay (West Vancouver) to Nanaimo on Vancouver Island.

JJ corners a fellow passenger to show off his accountancy skills

Leaving Horseshoe Bay aboard the ferry to Vancouver Island

Vancouver city from the west

Vancouver Island. Slo manages to ruin a perfectly good view. Again.

The road through the middle of Vancouver Island to Ucluelet. JJ thinks that he's spotted a discarded beer at the other side of the lake...

We're planning to spend a couple of nights here appreciating the views over the Pacific :)

Slo

Wild wild west

2009-08-02T00:49:00.005-04:00

We've done it. And we're a bit disappointed. Not with the trip, but that it wont take us longer. We still plan to go further west to Vancouver Island, but basically we've ridden the width of the second largest country in the world. And we want more........ Over the last couple of days I feel that we've both become a bit contemplative. Five and a half thousand miles inside a helmet with only yourself as company. You get a lot of time to think...

JJ asked me a strange question last night over dinner (and a couple of beers) "What would you change about the trip?". "Nothing". I have truly enjoyed every mile. Even the not being able to see the road for monsoon rain in Vermont.

Anyway, that's maybe a little premature, we haven't paddled in the Pacific yet. That's planned for Tuesday. Just now we are luxuriating in the Fairmont, downtown Vancouver. Which was a strange introduction to the city in itself. Once we hit the city limits, we rode through a really deprived area full of junkies queuing for their fix from a drug store. 1.5km later we're sitting having a beer in the Fairmont in an area resembling 5th Avenue. Go figure.

We were glad to leave Penticton and head west, up and over the mountains and through a canyon road. At last we found some truly twisty roads :)

We received a comment from Michael suggesting that we could save time by just photgraphing our drinks - as the scenery would last longer than what we were consuming. So, Michael, especially for you...

I've decided not to tango this evening. It turned out to be quite a ride. So just a couple of beers....

Slo

Paradise Ruined

2009-08-01T13:56:00.008-04:00

And not by the beer. Well, maybe it is.....

Going back a couple of days, we left Jasper and headed to Clearwater. It was a slow start, having visited a rather good micro-brewery. As an aside. What should beer taste like? I've always thought beer. But this is now the second time it's happened. The first was in New Orleans, several years ago. They had banana beer, which, for some reason, they were proud of. In Jasper, they had blueberry-vanilla beer. Tasted like blueberry ice-cream. WHY?! Okay, hands up. Who wants blueberry-vanilla beer? You, at the back, please leave the room..... Barring this, and their attempt at stout, the other beers were great.....

Mount Robson, the Rockies highest peak

Heading south from Clearwater, we started to see, some thinning of the tree line cause by fires.

Heading down Lake Okanagan, the scenes were breathtaking. The road rose and fell along the shoreline offering spectacular views. We finally reached Penticton. Which is situated at the south of the lake. Stunning.

Picturesque

Ruined. Like a Blackpool on steriods. A Daytona Beach easter weekend.

We check into our accommodation at Penticton....

Today is a beautiful day, we were told of a great biking road over to Vancouver, and I'm going to a milonga this evening. It doesn't get any better :) I think JJ is donning his chaps and heading to a western bar ;)

Slo

Hotter than a snakes ass in a wagon rut

2009-07-31T22:27:00.002-04:00

Last night was spent at Clearwater, about half way between Jasper and Penticton, where we currently reside, in a pool of sweat. It was reading 40 on the way down, except it was on the way up..... The ride down the Okanagan Lake is spectacular, but to tell you the truth it was just too damn hot to stop and take photos. Well, actually, the road runs against the lake and the traffic was very heavy (it's a holiday weekend) and I didn't fancy running across the highway just for a couple of snaps. So, I'll take some this evening and post tomorrow morning. I promise. Unless any of the three micro-breweries are any good, and then you may have to wait. Again.

Slo

Not so small details...

2009-07-29T20:42:00.002-04:00

I hope you've all been enjoying the pics and descriptions of where we've been...and what we've drunk ! In addition to these larger 'views' of the trip I did wonder if any of you would be interested in some of the details...things that can be every bit as important ? Take my underpants...

Some days ago I was searching the panniers for fresh underwear to discover the stock of 'cleans' dangerously low. The options were to hand wash or run over to the Wal-Mart buy a pack then grab a beer from the bar next door. Anyway...beer and new pants it was. The pack described these 'briefs' as MEDIUM for waist 30 to 32 inches...perfect. The reality is they are more like the emergency pants BA give you when they've lost your luggage...bloody huge !!

Nothing for it though but to make use of them (Slo had purchased also). Slo has a pair of braces which helps. He's decided that after each single use to discard said garments at various hotels across Western Canada. I've decided to hang on to mine in case we run short of gas and can strap them to the bikes as a sail.

Watch out all who shop at Wal-Mart !

Anyway, enough of this. I need to go find a pair so we can get to the pub !

JJ

"Git R Dun"

2009-07-29T20:33:00.003-04:00

Up early this morning and a sad farewell to Kim and to Cochrane. Thanks so much for putting up with us the last few days. It was lovely to see you and your gang...some great memories...baseball tournament in the garden, Calgary Tower, Banff, shots in the Magpie & Stump and George dancing Tango in the park surrounded by skateboard kids ! I hope the smell of stale biker fades quickly from the basement !

We had it on good authority (Kim) that the above phrase was the Western Canadien equivalent of 'Just Do It'. You can buy all kinds of stuff (shirts, t-shirts, belt buckles...etc) to convince people you are 'getting R done' ! Not sure how this would go down in Blighty...maybe I misunderstood...Kim ?

Anyway Slo and I headed out from Cochrane and today rode the length of both Banff and Jasper National Parks...spectacular.

We 'Got R Done'

JJ

now that's what I call mountains

2009-07-29T20:18:00.009-04:00

Well, ok, not this. This is Bow River Falls in Banff.

Then we headed to Jasper....

I'm not nearly eloquent enough to describe the beauty of the Rockies and, as far as I'm concerned, there is one button on a camera. So there is no way any of my photos can do justice to the place either. All I can say is that it is truly spectacular and, although the day started grey and cold and threatening rain. The JJ jinx worked and we were bathed in sunshine for most of the journey and it was a fantastic ride. My breath has most definitely been taken from me.

Lake Louise

Just a bit further along the road to Jasper

Nice road with the scent of burning brakes from all the cars going downhill ;)

Columbia Ice fields

Yes, we can still muck up a perfectly good photo..

Slo

back in the saddle

2009-07-28T21:34:00.003-04:00

We took our bikes in to get serviced and some new tyres (of the round, not square, variety) at Blackfoot BMW Calgary. I'm impressed: friendly, efficient and on time. However, I didn't like being charged $140 to fit the tyres! nor the fact that they didn't clean the bikes ;) Although, I suppose, neither did we..........

So it was grey and miserable on the way into town (rain) and very gentle going on the way back - thanks to said new shiny boots. We're heading up to Jasper tomorrow, I think that we may be taking it easy......

So last night at Kim's. A million thanks for putting up with two less-than-immaculately-smelling bikers and the use of your washing machine and the beer and for driving us about :) Quiet meal and an early start tomorrow.....Now where have I heard that before?

Slo

Banff

2009-07-27T13:45:00.008-04:00

It's strange travelling without the bike. The roads feel different, the passing trucks don't have the same impact (as it were). On the bikes, when a truck passes at 85, you get blown around like a rag doll, in a car, you barely notice. The drive up to Banff is beautiful. Strange being on a four-lane highway in the mountains. And being charged $40 to enter the rockies seems bizarre, but, whatever....

Walking around the town offers spectacular views, regardless of the gormless tourists who get in front of the camera....

We stayed at the Banff Springs. A small, understated B and B. To tell the truth, I wouldn't stay there again.... although they do make a mean mojito....

Haunting old haunts. JJ and Kim let me into an old watering hole of 22 years ago. We went in a lunchtime for a cold one. Unfortunately, it started raining and we were compelled to stay for a couple more. Even more unfortunately, the bar manager decided that what we really needed was a few shots. It turned kind of pear-shaped after that.....

After a litre of water and a quick hour in jaccuzi, I was right as rain, so we headed out for dinner. A bison steak and elk rib. Excellent.

This morning were are sitting having a coffee, waiting for the Greyhound back into Calgary. There is a milonga (tango) this evening and then I'm hoping we find a proper western bar (JJ wants to try line dancing now that he has bought some chaps ;)

Slo

Calgary and Cochrane

2009-07-27T13:29:00.008-04:00

We've been off the bikes since arriving at Kim's on Thursday. My bike needs it's 6,000 mile service and the first slot available at BMW Calgary is Tuesday. But this is proving a very enjoyable break from the three and a half weeks on the bike.

Our first (misty) view of the rockies....

On Friday we headed into Calgary for a, much needed, massage. I've had a sports massage before, but this one was executed by a physiotherapist - she could really inflict, I mean give a good massage. I've still got the bruises........ In the evening we settled down at a fire and made spiders dogs (split hot dogs).

Saturday was bright and sunny (again :) so after a fast and furious baseball game we headed to the Calgary Tower.....

Nice views....

The reason that we are looking slightly apprehensive is that we are standing on a glass viewing floor.

You get a bit of a ground rush looking down. Yes, that's Tim's feet and 524 feet below him is the street

We then headed to Banff.....

Slo

Alberta

2009-07-24T01:28:00.009-04:00

How big is Canada anyway? We're running out of provinces. Only one after this one..... It was good to reach Alberta. Everyone. And I mean everyone. Everyone said how boring the prairies would be. As we sit with Kim (JJ's friend from his first trip to Canada) sipping fine whisky (yes, we found an Oban ;) the rockies are in view. We have ridden the full width of the prairies and enjoyed every moment. Really. To get some perspective of size everyone should do this. Fantastic. But the start of Alberta isn't the end of the prairies. There's more...

We headed headed for Medicine Hat, as there would be a short hop to Calgary (Cochrane) from here.

Unfortunately the visitor's centre was closed at 5. Why? It's not like Medicine Hat is 5 minutes down the road from anywhere. Basically there's not much between Regina and Medicine Hat and Medicine Hat and Calgary. That means that you have to drive for a while.. You know what I mean. So 5pm is a bit early. ... Anyway

So, as per usual here we were supping on a well earned cold one, chatting to the barmaid. She asked us if we were in town for the stampede. No. Did we know that Glen Campbell was playing? Yes, we said, we travelled 4000 miles across Canada to see Glen Campbell. Well actually we didn't. But I was brought up with Glen Campbell - well his music - so jumping at the chance, we headed to the stampede. It was fantastic. On returning to the motel I texted my mum. She responded with 'Oh. I thought he was dead'.

Heading to Cochrane, JJ finally realises where west is....
x

JJ trying to decide on club choice on the tricky 18th hole at the Prairies Old Course. The par 5000 requires a solid drive to give a good approach.

After 1,500 miles across the prairies, JJ and Slo come across a bend in the road and have to consult the motorcycle handbook for advice....

Finally, as we cross Calgary, on the way to Cochrane, cresting a hill, JJ feels the need to point at very large rock formation in the distance. That will be the rockies then...... WooHoo! (although I think I did recognise them...)

Slo

For not very inquisitive ones

2009-07-22T16:24:00.006-04:00

Just to let everyone know (as it may not be obvious) JJ has managed to post his previous post as well (the one written some time ago) - it's from 17/07 and you can check it out here: 'tinterweb...and all that !'

G

When's a lock not a lock?

2009-07-22T10:44:00.002-04:00

From JJ's post (finally, Hurrah!) It reminded me of something else....

When it's a BMW pannier lock. I've found out that the problem with the pannier was that you can turn it to 'locked' position and remove the key. Unfortunately, for 3 of the 8 locks, with the key removed you can simple turn them to the unlocked position. Interesting concept, but I don't think that it'll catch on......

I'm looking forward to another day (and a bit) of riding straight roads til we get to Calgary - after some hard miles a few days agao dancing between trucks, these are very relaxing...

Slo

The bikes

2009-07-22T10:26:00.002-04:00

Wednesday morning and woke to yet another huge blue sky over Regina SK. Weather has been great the last week and the forecast in Western Canada for the next week is sun. Sitting on top of a 1200 fully kitted out and weighing in at around 300kg...you sweat a bit ! Still...way better then riding in the driving rain we got in Vermont.

Ride 5 hours or so to Medicine Hat today then on to Calgary tomorrow. Spending the weekend with a great friend of mine, Kim. Not sure she's going to be prepared for 2 smelly bikers arriving at the house. If she has any sense we'll be confined to the garage!

Bikes have been running great. Burning a little oil as expected but not excessive. We've both had false alarms from the tyre pressure sensors. Irritating and a little disturbing when it happens at 70mph. We've done around 4000 miles on the trip so far so they need a service and are booked in to BMW in Calgary. Most pressing need is for 2 new sets of tyres. With all the straight roads the last 10 days we've flattend the tread out. They look more like car tyres now !

Need to get on with the morning pack. I might even figure out how to publish today's pics when we reach the hotel tonight...bye for now.

JJ

I was wrong

2009-07-21T18:10:00.008-04:00

North

South

East

West

The sky across Manitoba isn't big. Well, actually it is, it's just that the sky over Saskatchewan is absolutely bloody massive. You start to get a real sense of insignificance when you find yourself on a road that disappears into the horizon. In both directions. You look left : infinity. Right : the same. It's wonderful :) Over the last two days I think that I've turned the handlebars half a dozen times, of which 4 of these were in/out of hotels..... We've both really enjoyed this riding. OKay, not your classic twisties, but it's a fantastic way to see this country, seeing, smelling, feeling the environment which, cooped up in a tin box, you would totally miss. The cross winds can be a bit interesting too ;)

JJ, west is the OTHER direction mate

Lennon and McCartney were wrong...It's a long and straight

Slo

Regina, capital of Saskatchewan

2009-07-21T17:54:00.006-04:00

That's where Slo and JJ are in the moment (some more information and pictures coming soon, I hope)

Just if someone would be interested:

Record high temperature in July +43.3 C.. (average +25.7 C)
Record low in January -50 C.. (average -21.6 C)
Regina's hockey team is Regina Pats of the Western Hockey League.
North-east of the city lies Kings Park Speedway, a ⅓-mile paved oval used for stock car racing since the late 1960s.
Regina International Airport is situated on the west side of the city and is the oldest established commercial airport in Canada.
Sister cities - Jinan (China) and Fujioka (Japan)
(source of information: Wikipedia)

:)

but there don't seem to be a well developed tango scene.. oh well

G

Half way. And shut.

2009-07-20T09:49:00.004-04:00

We have made it to Winnipeg. On schedule. Half way through our holiday and half way across Canada. So we decided to have a little celebration. But it appears a lot of Winnipeg is shut on a Sunday evening. Oh well. Beer it is then.

After leaving Dryden we (obviously) headed west to Kenora which looked like a nice coffee stop. That's a nice place to have a cup of insipid brown water. We got chatting to this couple who knew Andy in Dryden, it didn't surprise me to learn that he's a good after-dinner speaker...... It was a slow day yesterday, the miles were hard and it's becoming quite tiring looking at a 10 mile, flat, straight piece of road heading into late afternoon sun. We may have to reschedule our riding time, although sticking to what little plan we make hasn't really worked so far.

Guess we should continue west then.

Slo

PS I'd publish more photos, but they're of rocks and trees

Ice hockey. Discuss.

2009-07-19T12:27:00.002-04:00

We did. At length. Mostly about the fighting and the injuries in the sport. As per usual, we were sitting minding our own business, aiming for a quiet night and early start. Oh dear. Here we go again......

A very amiable chap, going by the name of Andy Rathwell : ex-professional player and now coach/fixer of broken bodies for the Dryden Ice Dogs took the time to enlighten us to the finer points of the sport. Namely, how fighting is integral and what injuries can be sustained by such pasttimes. I thought rugby was tough. These guys carry weapons in the shape of big sticks.... I've been to a hockey game a few years back and found it everything I expected: fast and furious and lots of big hits and the occasional punch being thrown. I never realised that it's all part of the structure of the game.

Needless to say it was a very enjoyable, and very late,evening. No matter only 250 miles to Winnipeg....

Onwards from Thunder Bay - Just

2009-07-18T21:38:00.007-04:00

Erm. How did that happen? We went out for a couple of quiet beers - looking to make a early start (setting a trend). But obviously we failed miserably. Again. I can't remember why, but dinner got forgotten about. Mmmm. in hindsight, probably not the best idea.... The view from the hotel was across to a model-like version of table mountain. Quick as a flash, or as quickly as their coffee will allow JJ suggested that they should call it coffee table mountain. Ho ho. Help!

I've received a few comments, one complaining about the number of road photos. Apart from the obvious fact that this is a road trip..... Here's something else

Ignace pond doubles as the local airport.......

Slo isn't happy with the state of route 17..... His legs are tired....

Slo

now some photos

2009-07-18T10:03:00.009-04:00

John had been responding to my continual moaning about the quality of coffee with "It's not as bad as a Tim Hortons" So, after only two and a half weeks we hit the famous (in Canada) coffee chain. I think that the (continual) rainwater spraying off the back of the bike tastes more like coffee. Nuf said......

We got this recommendation from a biker who pulled over in Sault Ste Marie "head north to Batchawana Bay, there's plenty there". Not quite sure about the plenty part, but the huf that we found was excellent. Right on the shore of Lake Superior.

And the road along the shore of lake superior

100 miles before breakfast, and we chose a nice spot

"We have trees and rocks and rocks and trees and trees and rocks and rocks and trees......" as the song here goes

Guess it must be Canada

Slo

tinterweb...and all that !

2009-07-17T20:13:00.004-04:00

So, not wanting to rush in to things...this is my first attempt at blogging! First of all, I agree with all the above posted by G&G...well done ! G particularly did a great job with the photography. I recon that riding across the Prairies Slo should be able to steer with his knees and snap the whole journey.

Impressions so far...Canada is BIG !! Maybe a daft thing to say (and I have spent a good amount of time here on other trips) but the scale just defies belief. You only get a real sense when you travel (without the comforts of AC and ACDC in the car) by bike. This is turning out to be a trip of many firsts for me...first big bike tour, biggest and heaviest (by a long way) bike I've ridden, 'big' weather...of all kinds, first time I've eaten eggs for breakfast every day for nearly 3 weeks...I'll stop there!

Even in the miles done so far there is such a different feel to parts of Canada. Quebec being the most different (some good some not so). Nova Scotia is superb and then stumbling in to Fredericton (with no expectations actually) to discover a delightful city, inhabitants, great beer...and a bike shop that sells mineral oil (we could have been spending a few nights in F had we not found this).

So, since I wrote the above paras (and didn't publish !) we're ridden across Manitoba and Saskatchewan (3 days). Everyone we spoke to en route said how bored we'd be with this part of the trip...not so. The scenery is amazing. I wouldn't want to commute every day, but I've never seen anything like it. I'm looking out the window on the 12th floor of the Ramada hotel in Regina (SK)...and think I can see my house in Hampton Hill !

Got to do the morning bike pack...more soon.

JJ

Thunder Bay it is

2009-07-17T19:53:00.005-04:00

Spent nearly 12 hours riding today - to come 450 miles to Thunder Bay. As G mentioned there were lots of trees. Also lots of beautiful countryside and good biking roads - not your twisty stuff, more like winding A roads. So we took the 17 up from Batchawana Bay (just north of Sault Ste Marie) around the top of Lake Superior. There was heavy grey clouds most of the way with everyone we spoke to telling us how unusual it is but that it's been like that all summer. On a positive note they usually add "but it's bound to break soon". That sounds like an eternally optimistic Scot........ Last night we stayed in this great Austrian / German Huf, at the end of a dirt track, which at the end of the day isn't fun. Especially if you're JJ when a large dog wanted to say 'Hi'. Food was excellent and they plied us with a couple of fest beers. But we behaved and lights out at 10.

Because today we were up and about at 630. Departed 700 and had a hundred miles under our belts by breakfast. We were feeling very smug with our progress, which kind of slowed down after that. But Thunder Bay was the target and, Thunder Bay it is. And, as the beer won't drink itself, I'd better go and keep JJ company.

I'll post the pics tomorrow along with a review of our escapades this evening...

Slo

Somewhere between Sault Ste Marie and Thunder Bay

2009-07-17T17:13:00.005-04:00

That's where I believe Slo and JJ are in the moment - in a big space uncovered by mobile networking. That's the reason for no new posts - not the beer or lack of interest.
(I'm sure no one will think so but...)
I also believe that that area is not very populated - so we may hear of some more trees. But who knows - maybe they will take some pictures?
(When I was in Canada JJ took at least 7!)
In the meantime - how about some comments? It would be nice to know that someone actually reads this blog (apart from me, Slo and JJ).
That's how to do it - just press the 'comments' button (the number means number of comments added so far) in the right bottom corner of each post, write something and submit. It's easy!

G

Heading West

2009-07-16T00:28:00.002-04:00

JJ spent an extra night in Quebec while me and G headed to Montreal (previous post) . The original plan was for JJ to meet at the airport (from where G departed) and head west to Ottawa. Now, the greatest plans of mice and men.... (does it mention bikers anywhere?) Theoretically me and JJ have identical GPS systems. Yes, I know, I've bitched about this before. But I texted JJ the airport name (and actually the alternative name too). It doesn't show up on his Garmin Zumo 660 (just to get the point across ;) But, admittedly, the local map he bought doen't show the (international) airport either. So he ended up 50 miles away from me, so it was a wet, slow (rush-hour and roadworks) journey to meet up. But meet up we did, in a place called Lachute (me and JJ have come up with several alternatives) but we believe the literal translation is 'town with dismal motel and deep fried frozen fish'. It was late, I was cold and wet and the attitude of the hotel staff was definitely lacking. The positive was that we were up and packing at 0600. and heading west (again, woohoo).

While it doesn't sound much. 300 miles on a bike, travelling at 60 miles an hour, on single carraigeway, is actually quite tough going. So we set our sights on North Bay, Ontario. 300 miles, give or take a coffee or two. So with great expectation we arrive at our destination, tired, but in good spirit....... Perception is a strange woman. Teasing us with hope then kicking us where it hurts then soothing us with the comfort of a good beer, great food and pleasant company (that will be the Moose Bar then) . Not much else happening, so I'll sign off. We have the lure Saul Sainte Marie to definitely avoid (having received legal advice on said subject - honestly, we met this lawyer - who studied law in Edinburgh) so shall be heading slight west of said, industrial ........ location. More tomorrow (or the next day) And I'll post a photo - if I manage to take one....

Slo

PS JJ promises to blog some interesting facts about all locals visited (if he figures out the keyboard....)

The French

2009-07-16T00:13:00.003-04:00

What can you say? I've toured France (a dozen times or more) on bikes and in a car and love the place: the people the food the wine and did I mention the wine? And then you have the Parisiennes. Now they are a totally different kettle of fish (or escargot? ;) Talking broad-brush-strokes here, Quebec is like a Paris on steroids with 10 motorways, on speed and trucks and rain and roadworks. As G has mentioned, there are notable exceptions, the milonga we went to was fantastic. Probably one of the best I've been to outside BsAs (and maybe Nijmegan ;) Classic tango, close embrace, beautiful space and wonderful people. A perfect milonga. The hotel was great too, and the bar (which I admit, about which, I was a bit sceptical) was great. But overall, I found Quebec too much Paris and not France. Which is a shame....... Did I mentoin the driving?......

But heading to Ontario .....

G's Canadian impressions (part 2 - impressions)

2009-07-15T10:22:00.005-04:00

Traveling on a bike is cool :) It was my first ever road trip and I didn't know what to expect.
It's so much different than traveling by car - much more sensual :) And actually the traveling bit is enjoyable - maybe apart from heavy traffic and traffic jams. (I really don't like the latter - experienced one on the way to Quebec and it wasn't nice)
So the highlights for me:
* People - absolutely friendly, nice, relaxed people - I don't know what make Canadians to have such a nice attitude and why are they so happy - but definitely on every step we were meeting with great friendliness, people were helpful and very open. Oh yes - apart from some in French Canada - it was almost a shock after being surrounded for a week with amazing friendly, always enthusiastic and smiling people to ride into Quebec province and find that not all of the people there are that nice. (Did you know that lots of people in Canada does not seem to speak any English? It was very surprising for me..) There were exceptions - for example people at tango in Montreal were really lovely. But the general impression is - there is a visible difference between non-French and French Canada. The French bit seem to be less happy. Even the bikers there don't greet each other that much.. But maybe my impression was false.
* Landscapes - what a beautiful country it is! I think water is my favorite part of it - the ocean, rivers, lakes, waterfalls.. Very picturesque (Yes, I took something in a range of 600 pictures.. But I'm always like that) And all those open spaces, hills, twisty roads... Wish I could see more of that. :)
* Small scale architecture - very cute, timber clad houses. Good scale, good feelings - there is no chaos in the space which is quite rare nowadays. Some nice architecture in the cities too - up to three - four stories. What spoils it a bit, is the bigger buildings - they seem to be a bit less successful (that's me trying to be very polite)
* Big scale engineering - roads, bridges, cutting the bits of the hills to have the space for the road - all pretty impressive.
* Food - especially seafood. Yum yum yum. Especially around Nova Scotia. Lobsters. Lobster rolls. Scallops. Not that much impressed by oysters ;)
Local beer is pretty good too.
On the downside I have to mention coffee - what surprises me is that everyone drinks coffee - but we didn't manage to get a good cup. (I'm sure Slo will keep trying and will let us know if he finds one)
And lots of other things: whales, lovely BnB-s, relaxed atmosphere on the roads, Fredericston (the capital of New Brunswick, really lovely place, not too big, amazing people, good beer, great food, nice architecture - if not for a tight schedule we would stay there for longer)...
Have I mentioned people?

I never really thought about going to Canada - but it's definitely place worth visiting.

G

G's Canadian impressions (part 1 - Montreal and tango)

2009-07-15T09:53:00.004-04:00

After almost 24h spend in the airports, on planes and traveling to and from, the Canadian trip has finished for me. It was just 10 days - but it seems so much longer. It was absolutely fantastic.
I'm counting on Slo to post a bit about the last few days as his reporting skills seem to be much better than mine.
My last night was the one in Montreal (it's a huge city, haven't seen such a big roads and multiple level crossings before - and it's busy with traffic, and roadworks, and it rained...)
Due to my great navigational skills we had a bit of a walk trying to find a particular shoe shop - but it was definitely worth it - I'll post few pictures of my new CIF later... And we went to milonga (tango dancing evening). Monday night, Al Sur Tango - really nice place with friendly people, very good music, nice dancers, good floor. It was good to dance after two weeks break.
The comment of the night was this one (while talking about the coast to coast trip):
"Across Canada? Have you looked at the map?" :)
Yes, it's big. So for the next few days Slo and JJ are planning to do some mileage. So not sure about blog updates.
Anyway - I was intendind to write some general impressions but it drifted towards tango and Montreal - so I'll post another one soon.

G

Edmundston to Quebec

2009-07-13T14:31:00.000-04:00

It was meant to be an easy 2hr drive - we had an early start to catch the ferry across St Lawrence river (from Riviere du Loup to Saint Simone) and then ridden to Quebec - managed to get there in the early evening.

It took more then 2hr to cross considering the waiting time - and the river is wide there (everything in Canada seem to be in a slightly different scale).

Then lovely ride along the river on twisty roads and all was fine untill we get to the huge traffic jam - it took exactly 1hr 15min to crawl along this particular village/town (can't remember the name)

Finally got to Quebec, to BnB (next time before booking ask what storey the room is at..), with quite challenging garage - pretty tired.
So went for some beers, had a nice dinner, wandered through old Quebec (with some music festival on) and had an early night.

G

Antigonish, Fredericston to Edmundston

2009-07-12T23:29:00.012-04:00

Yes, I know, it's been a couple of days since I posted - but a lot has happened. Well, actually, not a lot, but a bit of riding and a lot of trees have passed. One thing I can say about Canada: they have some marvellous B and Bs. We've decided that this is the preferred modus operandi for sleep. And some of them even throw in a late night piece of cake too!

We headed along the north shore of NS towards Pugwash

Nova Scotia has some really beautiful scenery and wonderfully warm people. We decided that, given our timescales, that we should make some milage and headed to Fredericston - for no other reason than it appeared the only stop within reach. I have NEVER seen so may trees. You know that you're in the middle of nowhere when the only advert is expounding the ecological benefits of trees...... So we made our own entertainment - here's one of JJ, taken bike-to-bike

What a find Fredericston was. I try not to expect anything and to just enjoy what I find. But Fredericston is a fantastic town/city. The Carriage House B and B was great (Steve the owner was especially helpful and fellow bike nut) We found fantastic food at The Blue Door, great beer and and the most attentive barman at The Snooty Fox. If you're ever in the area - look them up :) On the down side, they had a music festival....... ;)

JJ thought that the BMW R1200 was a bit tall and has traded it, deciding to complete the journey on this more manageable model. We shall return to the UK slightly later than anticipated ........

Still trying to set strict mileage targets, we yet again, failed miserably. We were heading to Riviere du Loup to catch the ferry to the north side of the St Lawrence river (better biking roads). We headed up the 102 which follows the St John's river until it turned into the 105 and, what can only be described as a farm track. So back on the trans-Canada highway. Our resident photographer was getting bored with the solitary subject of trees so turned her tallents elsewhere.

But given our late start and the fact that moose - the docile but big version - becomes active at dusk, we bailed at Edmundston.

And found, yet another great BnB

Slo

port hawkesbury to edmundston

2009-07-12T23:26:00.001-04:00

At last we head west

2009-07-09T21:44:00.007-04:00

After a great meal at Rusty Anchor - and a couple of beers - the next day we departed (again remarkably early) towards Antigonish. And, again, the sky was blue, the road dry and it was fantastic biking. Rounding the north and heading south - and west, we at last hit the most easterly point of the trip and dipped our toes ( and trousers) into the atlantic - next sea (hopefully) the pacific!

Fortunately - barring the ongoing saga with the Zumo, lack of decent coffee and now one of the pannier locks giving up the ghost (yes, it's 2 months old!) it's been a great couple of weeks :) We are now in Antigonish and planning a bit of a push tomorrow towards Federickston (?) and then a criuse to Quebec and Montreal.

2009-07-09T16:41:00.007-04:00

We left Glenora distillery earlier than expected. It is in a beautiful setting, well laid out, very well organised, has friendly staff and great food. But Glenfarclas et al don't have anything to worry about..... Sorry. But we had a great time.

We headed north to the Cabot Trail with great expectations. And it did not disappoint :) The sky was blue, the road dry and twisty. Well mostly. They were resurfacing about 4 miles, which they had, in all wisdom, covered in about 4 inches of gravel. It was.......interesting. But the rest of the run was fantastic.

We had previously decided to stay at Pleasant Bay (in the North West of the island) mainly in anticipation of not being able to travel far with a hangover - which never materialised. So we arrived earlier than anticipated.

JJ wanted to prove why he's a technophobe and stayed at the BnB (an excellent place called the Scottish Hillside BnB - but don't let the name put you off!) while me and G headed to do some whale watching. There was a significant debate as to what size of boat was required - I was opting for the QE II while G wanted to go in a blow-up rubber boat. We opted for the smallest, which actually turned out to probably be the best choice....

Slo

Cabot Trail

2009-07-08T20:46:00.003-04:00

Our route, as downloaded from the (crap) zumo 660. We lost day 4 (Yarmouth to Halifax) as the Zumo corrupted and I had to reload the maps. It decided that it didn't like (either) of the memory cards. I do really dislike it. A lot......

Today is the start of the Cabot Trail and whale watching. Pics (and video) later .......

Port Hawkesbury to Glenora

2009-07-07T16:15:00.018-04:00

We decided to make an early start to the day, and as per usual, we left around noon. I'll blame the lack of mineral oil and a decent grade of petrol (again....) Port Hawkesbury isn't necessarily the most picturesque of places - there's an open mine on a hillside - well what's left of a hillside - looks like there digging it straight into the ship.... And when we left it was still overcast and cold....

But.

What's that big fireball in the sky? Over the period of 30 minutes we were ingulfed in sunshine.

Port Hook is a beautiful cove. Offering my first chance to go off-roading (and to drop the bike - twice)

Another thing that JJ's been harping on about is his promise to eat his greens. I suggested that creme de menthe was probably not what was in mind ......

And we finally arrive at our destination for the evening: Glenora distillery offering a beautiful location (and I do mean beautiful) and ample opportunity for getting ugly later on ..... But I'm sure G will keep us in check - unless she like the 18 year old single cask........

Slo

Sherbrooke to Port Hawkesbury

2009-07-07T09:47:00.005-04:00

After spending the morning in the 17th century French fur-trading, logging and ship-building settlement of Sherbrooke we headed east along the Marine Drive coastal road. It's impossible to get homesick here: cold, windy, cloudy and quite, quite beautiful :)

JJ dons the Arai factor 1000 sunblock to protect his bonce aboard the ferry

Vista point at Chedabucto Bay, still no sign of a suntan

JJ along the Marine Drive coastal road

We were getting a bit cold crossing the causeway onto Cape Breton island.

Today we head up to Glenora whisky distillery (woohoo!) along route 19. It's looking brighter today and the forecast is for sunshine until the end of the week - that should see us round the Cabot Trail. Everything looking great - except trying to find some 95 octane petrol and 20/50 mineral oil for the bikes

Slo

PS expect tomorrows blog to be short and unintelligable ;)

Sherbrooke Village

2009-07-07T09:46:00.002-04:00

Slo decides to try out the new 2010 BMW R1200GSA "I thought that the 2009 model was a bit high, but at least fuel efficiency has improved" he adds.....

JJ in full flight

2009-07-05T21:47:00.002-04:00

Halifax to Sherbrooke

2009-07-05T21:18:00.007-04:00

We met up with G in Halifax, she had been up for 24 hours and we had a very early start (after having not an early enough night). So we went for an Italian (as suggested by Joan out formidable B and B lady, very nice, by the way) and a bottle of wine.

Today we had planned to leave at 11 sharp....... so at around 1130 we headed off...

At this point I would suggest that those of a particularly sensitive nature and those who do not like a long string of expletives to skip to the next paragraph. Okay? Kin 'ell . The Garmin Zumo 660 is absolutely, without question the biggest piece of junk I have ever had the displeasure of coming across. Now, I'm not suggesting that you go out and purchase the only alternative i.e. the TomTom I've used both - but the response from Zumo make a snail, on lithium, on the way to the dentist, look fast (Mike Carter). 'Turn right in 200 meters' Oh, the one that we've just passed? So, after wasting an hour or so going around Halifax in circles, we hit the open road. That's where we find another classic: 'Turn left into this field'.....with not so much as a gate...... That was brought to you on behalf of all makers of paper maps........

Anyway, or anywho (as the propensity is in these neck of the woods) The road up from Halifax to Sherbrooke is what we've been waiting for. Our first real taste of coastal twisties. It was great, it even stayed dry. Without exception, everyone we have met has told us how inclement the weather is for this time of year. Great, I could have driven in circles around Scotland if I had wanted rain. But we managed to dodge the showers and found nice accomodation at the Sherbrooke Village Inn. Three lobsters did not die in vain. Absolutely delicious.

You may notice that for the next 10 days the standard of photography drastically improves as G takes over the artistic side of things (in no uncertain terms ;)

White Mountains to Portland

2009-07-04T08:03:00.000-04:00

We awoke in Woodsville to the sound of torrential rain (again). After breakfast it stopped - the clouds were still hovering 10 feet over us - but it wasn't raining :)

We headed over the White Mountains, our first real taste of some twisty roads.

Arriving in Portland by 4pm we checked out the route to the port and checked in for the following days sailing. JJ's been harping on about lobster rolls from the moment we met in Heathrow, so we headed to the nearest lobster shack to sate his hunger for that particular crustacean. Pretty good. A local hostelry provided a good selection of local brews - and promising that we'd have an early night (0600 start for the ferry) it all went horribly wrong. Again.

Slo

Joining in

2009-07-03T10:18:00.006-04:00

Finally it's time for me (G) to take an active part in this journey - early start tomorrow morning, Edinburgh-London, London-Halifax - and finally meeting with Slo and JJ in the B&B in Halifax.
Sounds like a good plan.
So it's time to triple check my luggage, say goodbye to my little bike at home, say goodbye to a decent coffee and try to get some sleep. Considering my excitement it may be no sleep at all.
But hey - who would like to sleep on holidays... :)

Woodsville

2009-07-03T07:56:00.001-04:00

With a woolly head in tow we headed into Lake Placid for breakfast.
It didn't really help - a pint of orange juice and two of - admittedly American -
coffee stood no chance against the might of a mixture of summer ale, IPA and pilsner.



So we headed - rather slowly - to Lake Placid - the lake, not the town.
We sat on the jetty, waiting for the boat tour, enjoying a momentary glimpse
of sunshine. A bit ironic, coming to the states for rain.
After an hour of forced fresh air upon the pontoon we felt suitably invigorated
to climb aboard the bikes.

We arbitrarily chose Woodsville as it is about half way to Portland.
Four hours of driving through driving rain.
Are we having fun yet? ;) and my intercom packed in.
I'll look at it when we get a dry spell.

Lake Placid

2009-07-02T10:24:00.002-04:00

Yes, I know it shouldn't be on the route of a Canada coast-to-coast ride. But I suppose that we haven't reached the first coast yet. The US has a lot to answer for: coming across the border was a slow and miserable affair, the opposite of Canada - which was slow and friendly. Do the US border guys get special training in officiousness? They took our passports, keys and demanded money - if it wasn't for the passports I think we would have got our spare keys and buggered off ;) the other thing is their friendlyness here in Lake Placid and a certain guys enthusiasm for REAL beers. Master Brewer Rob (I'll link in his website when I get online). He forced us into sampling several (dozen?) It got rather ugly: we hammered them at foozball - but I think it was down to a roll on the table - or what appeared to be - maybe the bar was at a slight angle. I can't remember - all I know is that we are both suffering this morning. Call himself a master brewer? What the hell did he put in the beer?

We've broken the back of the journey to Portland - more than halfway and two more days to do it in. But today will be a somewhat slow affair methinks

Slo

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Jakk Tuesday

2009-07-01T13:58:00.000-04:00

Warm sunny and 150 miles done. 4000 to go

Cargo

2009-07-01T02:04:00.001-04:00

It's been interesting. Great breakfast - barring the coffee (I NEED to find a decent espresso) we headed to pick up the bikes at Vista Cargo building G.
Now, where my experience with anything related to uk government bodies proves to be document-laden, overly-complex, jobs-worth kind of experience, our getting-the-bikes proved to be document-laden but run by the most pleasant, helpful people you could possibly want to meet. Honestly. Yes there was the 5-copies-go-there-come-back-here-then-over-there experience. But everyone was very nice and helpful. Are you listening .gov.uk?

Uncrating the bikes was simple enough:the only spanner-work being for mirrors and my top-box plate. And we were soon on our way. For 100 yards. The bike felt strange and I got a tyre pressure warning. I'd managed to run over a tube of glue which was now firmly attached to the rear. That pealed off, we proceeded. For 50 yards. Still pressure warning - JJ too. This can't be right. Mmmm. Air cargo - deflate tyres for safety. Doh! Petrol - or gas if you will - 91 octane. Nope, next. So finally with fuel on board and a reasonable amount of air we were looking very sweaty and at a quick trip to Niagra. Until the thunder started. Beer it is then. Garmin. I'd obviously set it for 'avoid motorways' so we travelled back to the hotel using the most circuitous route possible - in the rain. I'd obviously also selected the option to ride on all the tram tracks in toronto. It was .............. Fun

Heading to Lake Placid tomorrow. Avoiding the aligator - obviously

Slo

Sun at last

2009-06-30T10:01:00.000-04:00

Day 2

2009-06-30T07:21:00.001-04:00

Wide awake at 0600. I NEED to find some decent coffee (this will be an ongoing theme for the next 6 weeks). Weather is still wet but heading to uncrate the bikes as soon as JJ emerges from his pit

Slo

Day 1

2009-06-29T20:49:00.004-04:00

Well we're here :) the flight was delayed an hour as a luggage trolley overheated under the plane - it felt like it was getting a little warm. This disappointment was offset, however, by JJ's charms and the glory that is, his BA gold card. So business class flying it was. After stuggling through 8 hours of champers and not unreasonable cuisine, we arrived in the fairmont royal york. And this is the view from our bedroom window. I guess it MUST be toronto

Slo

On the way to the starting point

2009-06-29T13:32:00.003-04:00

Don't know the details about awaiting for the plane (and amount of alcohol involved) but I would like to announce that the adventure has begun - as I write this words Slo and JJ are flying over the Ocean, to Toronto. I can't decide between being melancholic in empty house or being excited that in a few days I'm going to take my part in this adventure too. But being a woman I can (easily) be melancholic and excited in the same time.
So now, fingers crossed, we shall start hearing some road stories (soon).

Last minute checks / panic

2009-06-28T17:25:00.002-04:00

Why does technology fail you, just when you thought everything was going swimmingly? 0900 flight to London tomorrow, taxi booked, checked in online and ticket printed. Went on to the Canada flight and.....well, after been taken through the passport details, and security checks, choosing seats, halfway through the check-in procedures, I am kindly informed that online check-in is not allowed on this flight. Now, I've never visited Heathrow's latest and greatest, but the dark clouds of bad omen seem to be taxi-ing up to Terminal 5 as we speak. Just as well we only have carry-on luggage.

Not that I'm paranoid, but the triple-checking of all things that I know that I've already packed and checked (twice) continues......

Final call for Mr Slo........

dicontomy

2009-06-27T15:48:00.003-04:00

Between tango and Canada. We've got some great milonga teachers (Gabriela y Eduardo) visiting Edinburgh and the classes are great - but Monday with the enticement of flights to Canada is now looming large and is a big distraction. And G is ready to go to the milonga now and giving me the evil eye .....

Shipping

2009-06-26T13:14:00.002-04:00

Just received the shipping details from Giles at JamesCargo. So I guess we'll be going now. Bikes are due to arrive Monday 1530, we're due to arrive 1830. We may be the worse for wear - or more probably beer, so are planning to pick the bikes up Tuesday morning. After several espressos.

I've got a busy weekend, there are visiting tango teachers (milonga) so a bit of running about for that, then early flight down to London on Monday to meet up with JJ and spend a couple of hours causing damage to the BA lounge bar at terminal 5 :)

The photo is of Loch Tay as we headed west on the north road - brilliant weekend (Glenshee, Lecht, and Loch Tay) first over night use of the GS.

This is also a test posting from email.

Slo
perception seldom has much in common with reality

Beyond Hotmail - see what else you can do with Windows Live. Find out more.

Luggage

2009-06-23T18:46:00.002-04:00

JJ raised a valid, if not late, topic for debate prior to departing: pants

That is, not "Pants?" and definitely not "Not pants" , but rather "How many?"

Now, there is much anecdotal evidence from those who have travelled before, regarding the number of underthings required for any sized journey. I remember seeing an interview with one Sir J Saville that he only ever travelled with one pair (the ones that he wore) and that he would wash them every night. Now wearing a pair of faded (and in all probability damp) kecks, is not really my idea of valhalla. And I cannot say that I want to be blogging on a daily basis, for the next 6 weeks, about how clean I managed to get my boxers and what deturgent I use. So, I'm definitely not only packing one pair......

What about paper ones?

Zero minus 5 days - setting up the blog

2009-06-23T14:18:00.008-04:00

This will look pretty bare until I figure out how to do things - and some imagination would also help.....

Firstly I should start with a brief synopsis of the blog:

About 18 months ago I received a text from JJ, he was in a pub in Switzerland, with a mate, and they had this great idea to do a 6-week, coast-to-coast across Canada. I wasn't privvy to the exact conversation, but I can guarantee that it was alcohol fuelled :) My obvious response to the text was "Yeah, why not? So does that mean you're going to sit your bike test JJ?".

18 months later, JJ has passed his test, and, after a slight hiccup, my bike finally arrived at JamesCargo for shipping to Toronto. JJ was slightly more organised.

So, after a couple of changes, the current line up looks like:
JJ on his R1200GSA

With me, Slo on my R1200GSA accompanied by the beautiful G (for 10 days)

Here's a short video of the first stage of my GSA's journey to Toronto.

Our plan has always been not to plan a route, just start on the Atlantic side and head west until we ran out of road, but with G coming for 10 days, some dates had to be fixed. Additionally I discovered Canada's only malt whisky distillary, so that's an obvious detour (just so happens to be on the Cabot Trail too :)